Stamen Maps offer beautiful maps that are reminiscent of hand drawn maps. They use map information from OpenStreetMap and all the tile images are licensed under a Creative Commons license that even allows commercial use.
You have toner maps that are in high-contrast black and white while the terrain maps are perfect for highlighting hills and natural vegetation.
Stamen Maps can applied as a layer on Google Maps and you can then use the built-in controls of Google Maps to navigate the maps.
You can also download any map area as a static image using your favorite map style.